New research reveals how waves transform on natural beaches!
The study looked at how waves change as they approach the shore on natural beaches. They found that wave height increases as waves get closer to the shore, especially in shallow water. The shape of the waves also changes after they break, with some waves losing energy faster than others. The researchers used different models to understand these changes and found that the models need to be adjusted to better match what happens in real life. Overall, the study shows that wave behavior in the surf zone is complex and influenced by factors like wave height and water depth.