New Research Reveals How Directional Waves Impact Energy Transfer in Oceans
The researchers studied how energy is dissipated and transferred when waves break in deep water. They created directional breaking waves in a controlled environment and measured the changes in wave patterns. By separating different wave components and removing certain effects, they found that the energy dissipation and transfer during wave breaking are influenced by the wave's frequency. This research helps us understand how waves lose energy and change shape when they break, which is important for predicting wave behavior in the ocean.