New model predicts beach sandbar migration driven by wave accelerations.
Wave-induced forces play a crucial role in moving sandbars on beaches closer to the shore. By studying how waves accelerate fluids, researchers predicted and observed sandbars migrating towards the land. The maximum acceleration-induced transport shifts towards the shore with the sandbar, creating a feedback loop that pushes the bar closer to the land until conditions change. By combining wave and current effects, researchers simulated both onshore and offshore bar migration over a 45-day period.