Intertidal bar migration impacts beach erosion and wave behavior.
The researchers studied a beach in the Netherlands to understand how waves and tides affect its shape over time. They used wave measurements and video footage to identify different zones on the beach based on wave height and steepness. They found that when tides are high relative to wave height, waves shape the beach, while lower tides lead to erosion by swash. This information can help predict how beaches change depending on tidal conditions.