Earth and Planetary Sciences
8 years ago

Existing wave height formulas underestimate maximum wave heights in shallow water.

Coastal Engineering Journal
Estimation of Maximum Possible Wave Heights in Surf Zone
Winyu Rattanapitikon, Khiem Quang Tran, Tomoya Shibayama

Paper Summary

The study looked at different formulas used to predict the maximum wave height in the surf zone. They tested 14 formulas against real wave height data and found that most of them underestimated the maximum wave height in shallow water. By adjusting the top three formulas, they were able to get more accurate predictions.

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