New study reveals how rip currents form on open coasts!
Intersecting ocean waves of the same frequency can create rip currents on open coasts. This happens when wave trains meet, causing variations in water level and wave height along the shore. These variations lead to strong currents that can pull swimmers away from the shore. This study suggests that rip currents are not just caused by irregular bottom topography, as previously thought, but also by the interaction of ocean waves.