Breaking waves intensify coastal erosion, new study reveals wave height impact.
Wave height plays a crucial role in how sediment moves along the coast. Scientists studied how waves break and change shape near the shore. They used math to create a model that predicts wave behavior in and out of the surf zone. By comparing their model to real-world experiments, they found that it accurately predicts how waves break and lose height. This research helps us understand how waves affect coastal areas and how sediment moves in response to wave action.