New research reveals how waves shape coastlines and impact communities.
Wave breaking in shallow water was studied using a numerical model based on Navier-Stokes equations. The goal was to understand how waves break near the shore and the resulting hydrodynamic processes. The researchers used a two-dimensional model with a turbulence closure model to simulate wave run up on a sloping beach. They found that the model accurately predicted the propagation, deformation, breaking, and overturning of waves, focusing on velocity and turbulence characteristics. This study helps us understand how waves behave near the coast and how they impact the movement of water and sediment in the nearshore zone.