Infragravity waves revealed as key factor in beach erosion.
In big waves at the beach, there are smaller waves within them that create long waves called infragravity waves. These waves don't break like the big waves do, and they can cause beach erosion. A recent study looked at how these infragravity waves interact with the regular waves and affect the movement of sand on different types of beaches. The researchers found that infragravity waves can play a significant role in shaping beaches by carrying sand towards the shore.