Gravel beach wave study reveals breakthrough insights on coastal erosion prevention.
The researchers aimed to create a model that can replicate the wave deformation around the surf zone and swash zone on a gravel beach. They conducted indoor experiments using coral gravel to simulate a gravel beach and studied the relationship between wave deformation and cross-sectional topography. By considering the permeability of the gravel layer, they built a model to reproduce wave behavior on the beach. The model successfully replicated the characteristics of waves with varying periods causing wave breaking and swash, as well as wave penetration into the gravel layer.