New model accurately predicts wave breaking, improving coastal safety and planning.
The article examines wave breaking in different water conditions using a computer model. It compares the model's predictions with real-world experiments and other computer simulations. The model accurately represents how waves break and lose energy, even in complex situations like unsteady wave packets. The study shows that the model can capture the changes in wave height, velocity, and energy distribution during breaking. It also discusses how the model handles dissipation of wave energy. The researchers found that the model can predict wave behavior before and after breaking, as well as the overall decay of wave height.