Earth and Planetary Sciences
8 years ago

New study reveals how waves shape beaches, impacting sediment transport.

Applied Mechanics and Materials
Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore
Tao You, Li Zhao, Zheng Xiao, Lun Chao Huang, Xiao Rui Han

Paper Summary

Related papers

Theme background image
Earth and Planetary Sciences
3 years ago

New research reveals how wave groups impact surf-zone dynamics.

Coastal Dynamics
Ocean Dynamics
Wave Energy
Theme background image
Earth and Planetary Sciences
8 years ago

New study reveals how waves shape beaches, impacting sediment transport.

Coastal Dynamics
Mangrove Ecosystems
Ocean Dynamics
1 view
Theme background image
Earth and Planetary Sciences
8 years ago

New study reveals how wave height impacts coastal sediment transport!

Coastal Dynamics

Breaking waves in the surf zone play a crucial role in shaping beaches. A theoretical model was developed to understand how waves transform in this area, considering factors like wave steepness and beach slope. The model accurately predicted wave behavior and breaking points. Flume experiments confirmed the model's accuracy in predicting wave height distribution.