Wave steepness key factor in beach erosion, new study reveals.
The study aimed to understand how waves affect sandy beaches by analyzing the relationship between beachface movements and wave characteristics using a statistical method called Canonical Correlation Analysis. The research was conducted in Houjiangwan Bay, eastern Guangdong, where plunging breakers controlled the surf zone. The results showed that wave steepness, irregularity factor, and spectral broadness factor strongly influenced beach topography, with wave steepness being the most important factor. The study demonstrated that statistical analysis can be useful for studying how waves impact beach profiles when there is a strong correlation between the two variables.