Swash-based reflection in waves could reshape coastal erosion predictions.
Understanding how waves behave near the shore is crucial for coastal engineers. This study looked at how reflected waves impact wave properties and circulation in the nearshore. By using a detailed model, the researchers found that reflected waves generated in the swash during backwash can significantly affect individual wave properties like wave height. On steep beaches, this reflection can create patterns that influence wave variability. The study also showed that the outgoing wave field can strengthen undertow and generate onshore-directed flows, which may help stabilize the position of underwater bars. Overall, the findings suggest that swash-based reflection plays a complex role in sediment transport and nearshore bar formation.