New model predicts wave transformations on beaches, impacting coastal erosion.
The researchers studied how waves change near a beach. They found that wave grouping affects larger waves outside the surf zone, but not as much for breaking waves. The distribution of wave heights in shallow water is not always what we expect. A model that considers wave grouping and surf beat can predict how waves change near the shore. The length and shape of waves change as they move from deep to shallow water. The location of wave height peaks depends on the steepness of the waves. Wave grouping doesn't affect wave shape in the shallow water. Wave shape may be important for predicting sediment movement near the shore.