New research reveals how waves and currents shape coastal erosion.
The article explores how waves and currents interact in the nearshore zone, focusing on effects like storm surges and tsunamis. The researchers developed equations to describe how waves drive currents and sediment transport, especially in areas with breaking waves. They found that different beach profiles can affect the movement of water and sediment, leading to phenomena like rip currents. The study shows that as waves erode the nearshore zone, wave set-up and currents can change over time.