New Study Reveals Surprising Sand Movement Patterns in Surf Zones
Researchers conducted experiments in energetic surf zones to measure the movement of sand using fluorescent tracers. They found that the rate of sand transport along the shore can be predicted by the height of breaking waves and the speed of the current. The tracers showed that sand moves in pulsating patterns along the shore and into the seabed. The depth at which the tracers mix varied across the surf zone, with peaks in the swash and breaker zones. The distribution of sand transport rates also varied, with some cases showing peaks in different areas. These findings help us understand how sand moves in the surf zone and can inform coastal management strategies.