Breaking waves create powerful turbulence affecting coastal water quality and safety.
The study looked at how turbulence behaves under different types of ocean waves. They created wave groups in a large tank and used various instruments to measure the turbulent energy in the water. They found that turbulence near the ocean floor is mainly caused by the waves hitting the bottom and disappears quickly. Turbulence from wave breaking lasts longer and moves in a specific direction. The energy from breaking waves can lag behind the actual wave, and the movement of turbulent energy is influenced by the direction of the waves.