Numerical simulations reveal breakthrough insights into turbulent wave dynamics at coastlines.
The researchers used computer simulations to study how waves break over a fixed bar on a beach. They found that accurately predicting the turbulent flow of water requires special attention to how turbulence is modeled. By comparing their computer results to real-world measurements in a wave flume, they were able to show that their simulations accurately captured the behavior of waves breaking over the bar. This study helps us better understand how waves move and break near the shore, which is important for predicting things like erosion and wave damage to coastal structures.