New wave modeling method predicts coastal wave breaking with high accuracy.
The article investigates how waves break in coastal areas using a complex wave model. By testing different criteria and methods, the researchers found that their model accurately predicts wave breaking and dissipation. The model performed well for regular waves but had some limitations with irregular waves, especially in the low-frequency range. Overall, the simulations matched well with observations from laboratory experiments, showing that the model can effectively simulate wave behavior in different coastal scenarios.