Breaking waves drive beach erosion and rip currents, impacting coastal communities.
The surf zone is where waves break near the shore, affecting how sand moves and shapes beaches. When waves break, they create strong currents that move water along the shore and towards the ocean. These currents can also pull sand back into the ocean, creating rip currents. Infragravity waves, a type of wave that is important in the surf zone, play a big role in these processes. Different types of waves, like bound waves and edge waves, also influence how water moves in the surf zone. The shape of the land, like reefs, can change how these processes work.