Earth and Planetary Sciences
4 years ago

New method predicts beach erosion and sediment retention with wave data.

Wave averaging for scoping level estimates of nearshore berm morphodynamics
Douglas Krafft, Brian McFall, Richard Styles, Katherine Brutsche

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Nearshore berms help keep sand on beaches and reduce wave erosion. Scientists studied wave data to estimate how berms change over time. They found that the direction of berm movement is related to the energy from storm waves. Sediment transport in the beach is linked to the energy from non-storm waves. This research can help coastal planners and engineers understand how berms evolve and how to manage beach erosion.