Earth and Planetary Sciences
4 years ago

New Study Reveals Free Long Waves Impact Dune Erosion Predictions

Impact of Free Long Waves on Dune Erosion Predictions in Numerical Modelling
H. Daouk

Paper Summary

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The report studied how long waves impact dune erosion predictions in XBeach. Two types of long waves were distinguished: bound waves and free waves. Free waves can travel long distances and affect different coastlines. The traditional method of predicting wave behavior was found to overestimate wave height and energy. XBeach accurately predicted wave behavior on natural beaches but tended to overpredict wave energy. Including free long waves in the model improved dune erosion predictions.