Breaking waves predict sediment concentration, revolutionizing coastal erosion prevention.
Flume experiments were conducted to study how sediment moves in and out of the surf zone under breaking waves. By looking at how energy is lost in sediment-laden water and comparing it to hydraulic jumps, formulas were created to predict the amount of suspended sediment under different wave conditions. The researchers found that the sediment diffusion coefficient, which is linked to energy loss, is proportional to water depth. This led to accurate predictions of how much sediment is close to the seabed and how it is distributed vertically under breaking waves.