New method accurately predicts wave behavior for safer coastal living.
The article presents a method to study water waves at the beach using computer simulations. The method accurately models short waves by considering both wave frequency and how waves change as they approach the shore. It uses a grid system to divide the water into layers and a special mathematical scheme to calculate wave behavior. The technique is good at conserving mass and momentum, only losing energy when waves break. By applying a wet-dry algorithm, the method can predict how waves will move up the beach. The results of the simulations match well with real-world data from both experiments and calculations, showing that the method is effective for studying wave behavior at the beach.