Improved wave prediction in surf zones with new spectral modelling techniques.
The goal of the research was to improve wave prediction in the surf zone using the SWAN model. By analyzing wave data and simulations, it was found that SWAN underestimated significant wave height in the surf zone. Three adaptations were proposed and tested, including implementing a Rayleigh distribution for breaking and non-breaking waves, adjusting the breaker parameter, and considering frequency-dependent energy dissipation. These changes significantly improved the prediction of wave heights and the fraction of breaking waves, especially on steep slopes. The study also highlighted the importance of accurately representing energy dissipation at different frequencies and the need to address triad interactions in the model. The implementation of these adaptations in SWAN is recommended for better wave prediction in the surf zone.