Earth and Planetary Sciences
3 years ago

New mathematical models predict beach erosion and wave heights accurately.

Coastal Engineering 1996
Mathematical Models for Waves and Beach Profiles in Surf and Swash Zones
Akira Watanabe, Mohammad Dibajnia

Paper Summary

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The article presents mathematical models for waves and beach profiles in surf and swash zones. The researchers extended existing equations to include wave deformation and beach profile changes. They computed wave heights and sediment transport rates on constant slope beaches, comparing their results with existing formulas. The models were validated using data from large wave flume experiments.