New Study Reveals How Sandy Beaches Respond to High-Energy Waves
The study looked at how the slope of a sandy beach changes over time, which is important for things like safety and wave behavior. By studying a beach in France over 9 years, researchers found that the slope of the beach changes in response to different wave energies. Near the water, the slope gets steeper during calm periods, while further up the beach, it gets steeper during stormy times. This is influenced by the formation of sand berms on the beach. The researchers used a model to predict these changes in beach slope, which matched up with what they observed about 40-65% of the time.