New research reveals how breaking waves shape coastal currents and turbulence
The article discusses the complex dynamics of waves in the surf zone, the area between the breaker line and the shoreline. When waves break on a beach, they release energy and create turbulence. This turbulence leads to the formation of currents and longer waves. The study highlights progress in understanding wave-generated phenomena like wave set-up, currents, turbulence, and long wave generation. The researchers cover topics such as nearshore circulation, wave motion, and infragravity waves. The goal is to provide a basic understanding of these phenomena and guide readers to further literature for more in-depth knowledge.